Seven Seas Grandeur in the Scottish Highlands

After an easy boarding process and champagne welcome on Regent’s newest ship, the 746 passenger Seven Seas Grandeur we, like many guests, headed for the buffet restaurant on deck 11 while passing and admiring some of the 300,000 pounds of polished marble, 503 chandeliers and the ship’s $6 million art collection including three Picassos and a unique Fabergé egg. Public spaces were stunning!

The marble floor leading to the Compass Rose main dining room

Le Veranda, the buffet restaurant, was surprisingly elegant. Every table had a white linen tablecloth with high end German made Schonwald dinnerware and quality Sambonet silver plate flatware. Not your ordinary cruise ship buffet setting! And the food was certainly not ordinary with an appetizing choice of several hot dishes including a prime rib carving station, freshly steamed vegetables and imaginative desserts. We were offered choices of complimentary wine, beer or cocktails, even tasty non-alcohol versions.

After lunch we unpacked, reviewed the safety video and admired our large 331 square foot balcony suite. It featured a king size bed with luxurious, high thread-count sheets, convenient lighting and power outlets with plenty of storage space and a walk-in closet. The bathroom had both a tub and separate shower with double sinks and convenient space for all our toiletries. We’d rate it as among the best cruise ship bathrooms we’ve ever seen. A heated floor would have made it perfect.

Our first meal on Grandeur, the buffet, showed us the high level of service from some of the 548 well-trained staff and the ship’s attention to detail. We were even more astonished as we headed for dinner at Compass Rose, the main dining room. With a simulated cascading waterfall at the entrance, the large, imaginative room resembled an enchanted forest of trees forming a canopy with dazzling jewels on their trunks. It was spectacular during the day but we were in awe as night approached and the sides of the room turned into an optical illusion of infinity.

The stunning main dining room, Compass Rose

The menu in Compass Rose was the most complete we’ve ever seen on a cruise ship. In addition to a wide choice of daily specials on the right side, the left side of the large menu had an “Always Available” list of more than a dozen favourites ranging from Black Angus Filet Mignon to whole Dover Sole with many sauces and choices of side dishes. One guest told us he ordered Lobster Tail every evening for dinner. The Rossini style tenderloin with seared foie gras we ordered was the best piece of beef we’ve enjoyed on any cruise.

Superb beef in Compass Rose

To our disappointment, the well-promoted guest celebrity chef, Christopher Gross, a James Beard Award winner, didn’t make an appearance until near the end of the cruise but it gave us a chance to sample Grandeur’s three specialty restaurants. But before trying them we passed the ship’s extensive library and headed to the bright and well-equipped Culinary Arts Kitchen on Deck 11 to meet its cheerful and knowledgeable Chief Instructor, Chef John Stephano of Philadelphia. His extra-cost classes ($US89) for 18 students are held each day, twice on sea days. “Because most of our guests are well travelled and sophisticated,” he told us, “my classes try to teach something new – a deep dive to the area, to the region.” He said he wants guests to understand the history of a cuisine. “If we can impart the richness and culture of the past, then guests have a better understanding of how the food affects their palate. Most people consume food. We want guests to taste it.”

A cooking class in the Culinary Arts Kitchen

Taste was our objective over the next few days as we tried the three complimentary specialty restaurants. Appropriately, the entrance to the Deck 5 Pacific Rim Asian restaurant had a full-size bronze Bonsai cherry tree with pink petals of Murano glass. We enjoyed several imaginative items from its extensive menu including Peking duck & watermelon salad, Canadian lobster tempura, pork and shrimp dim sum and flavourful miso black cod. Our optional chopsticks were put to good use. The other two specialty restaurants were close to each other on Deck 10. Typical of a good steakhouse, Prime 7 offered us large portions of high quality beef, pork, lamb and veal in addition to surf & turf or a whole lobster. Chartreuse evoked memories of a fine Parisian restaurant with appetizers of steak tartare & caviar and terrine de fois gras au sauternes topped with three rings (chef Gross later told us this was his favourite dish on the cruise). Entrée choices included fillet of halibut and seared Barbary duck breast. The complimentary wine was mostly from France.

A favourite dish: Terrine de foie gras au sauternes

The Connoisseur Wine Lunch, offered once per cruise, was another culinary highlight. The extra cost experience ($US169) consisted of five exquisite courses introduced by a senior chef paired with especially fine wines with commentary by a resident sommelier. Especially creative and tasty were the fois gras and black angus beef raviolo with black truffle foam and sesame-crusted cod filet with pumpkin risotto. The feast ended with a Callebaut chocolate lava cake accompanied by a 2014 Far Niente Dolce from the Napa Valley.

We arranged a tour of the sparkling clean, stainless steel galley and met Senior Executive Chef Dino Schwager. He told us that “Destination Dishes” in Compass Rose were an important part of this Spotlight on Cuisine cruise. He added that they try to reflect the region (Fish and Chips and Irish stew on separate evenings were typical) but if the ship can get fresh fish, he prefers it over a frozen product. That explained how Mahi Mahi, picked up fresh en route, turned up on the menu as a “Destination Dish”.

Guest chef Christopher Gross on stage

The guest chef, Christopher Gross, owner/chef at Christopher’s in Phoenix, finally got a chance to shine on the second last day of the cruise. On stage with overhead TV cameras focusing on the food, he carefully prepared a complex Parnassienne au Chocolate, a chocolate mousse tower covered by a dark chocolate lattice. It became a popular dessert feature at Compass Rose in the evening. Chef Gross was entertaining and very skilled but we, like many guests, were hoping he’d have even more culinary techniques and advice to share. He even told us he wished the ship had kept him busier.

Chef Gross’ decadent chocolate dessert

The cooking presentation was in the 750 seat Constellation Theatre, the main showplace on Seven Seas Grandeur. Taking up decks 4 and 5 at the front of the ship, the comfortable theatre featured lectures and other presentations during the day and entertainment each evening. We were very impressed by the seven-piece band that accompanied most acts. The showcase performances involved eight resident dancers and four singers with complex shows on three separate nights. The dancers were great, the singers less so. One solo act stood out. Nik Page, a veteran West End performer, had a range of four octaves and received standing ovations for his brilliant versions of hit songs from Les Misérables and Phantom of the Opera.

Lively production shows on three nights

Our return home was from Paris but the cruise ended in La Havre, France, close enough to the D Day beaches of Normandy for Regent to offer tours to the American and Canadian beaches. There were few Canadians on board but twelve of us joined an excellent guide to visit Juno Beach where 360 Canadian troops died in the June 6, 1944 D Day assault to liberate France. It was an emotional couple of hours, especially when we toured the adjacent Canadian war cemetery where hundreds of young men are buried.

We’re always sad when a cruise of this quality comes to an end. But with the marvelous cuisine on Seven Seas Grandeur and the well-organized tours to Scottish castles, battlefields, archaeological sites and distilleries, we did learn much more about the history and culture of this unique and rich area of our planet. Our one regret was that the chefs chose not to prepare and serve traditional haggis, Scotland’s national dish.

Photo Credits

All photos by Sandra and John Nowlan – All Rights Reserved

Fredericton’s thriving downtown, filled with bars and restaurants, includes world class cultural attractions like the Beaverbrook Art Gallery, known for its Canadian, British and International collections including Salvador Dali’s giant masterpiece, Santiago El Grande, as well as the centrally located Garrison Grounds, the 18^th century British army base, with its adjacent Fredericton Region Museum.

The Garrison Grounds in central Fredericton

The city is also rated as one of the most walkable in Canada with good restaurants, bakeries, cafes, bars and unique gift shops scattered along King and Queen streets. Surprisingly, it’s also very driveable. We rarely had a problem finding parking spots.

We recently spent three days in the city ranked by several out-of-province magazines and newspapers as among the top ten places to visit or live in Canada. Here are our highlights:

ACCOMMODATION. In the past we’ve stayed at several historic B&Bs. This time we went more modern with a fine room at the Delta Fredericton, located just north of downtown directly on the wide Saint John River. If you stay here, try to get a room overlooking the river. It’s spectacular. The hotel’s BBQ restaurant is also excellent.

MEALS. Fredericton has become a city of culinary treats with recent immigrants adding to the wide range of ethnic restaurants, most of which are located within walking distance downtown. Our first stop was at Momo Ramen & Izakaya on Queen Street with several authentic Japanese specialities. Our honey garlic chicken appetizer was outstanding with a delightful main dish of grilled chicken udon. The next day we went tropical with Trinidadian and Jamaican cuisine at Caribbean Flavas on York Street. The curry was very tasty and the jerk chicken was authentic although we thought that the chef could have used chicken thighs instead of drumsticks for better flavour. The city’s German and Mexican restaurants also receive high ratings.

With at least a dozen breweries in the city plus distilleries and cideries, Fredericton is now Atlantic Canada’s craft brewing capital. Several breweries include excellent pubs like the Gahan House on Queen Street. With great character as a former bank and terrific pub food, Gahan’s has become a favourite among the locals.

The Gahan House brewpub

As with most cities, pizza has become a ubiquitous treat and Fredericton has recently added Detroit style with the opening of Coastline Pizza at the corner of King and Westmoreland Streets. If you like a thick crust and generous servings this is a great spot for pizza. Just across from Coastline Pizza is First Light Distilling which offers creative mocktails to satisfy the growing trend towards non-alcohol drinks. It also includes Scout’s Original Sandwich Shop with homemade desserts.

Coastline thick crust Detroit style pizza. Broccoli on the left and Canadian on the right.

Fresh pastry lovers can enjoy traditional and unique creations at both Simon’s Bakery on Regent Street and Chess Piece on Queen, Fredericton’s first and only Parisian style patisserie.

Chess Piece, a Parisian style patisserie

Fredericton’s 75 year old downtown Boyce Farmers Market is a Saturday tradition with more than 250 indoor and outdoor vendors. It’s one of Canada’s Top 10 markets and features a great variety of cheese and fresh squeezed juices.

The busy Boyce Farmers Market

CULTURE AND HISTORY. The cultural gem of Fredericton is undoubtedly the Beaverbrook Art Gallery on Queen Street. Named for New Brunswick native and British publishing magnate Lord Beaverbrook (his empire included the Daily Express newspaper and during World War II he was Minister of Aircraft Production), the modern building has over 5300 works in its permanent collection and regularly hosts travelling exhibitions.

A birchbark canoe, almost 200 years old, in the Beaverbrook Art Gallery

Fredericton loves its live music. Each September the city hosts the annual six-day Harvest Jazz and Blues Festival (now known simply as the Harvest Music Festival). Now in its 35th year with 25 performance venues throughout the downtown it attracts top international and east coast talent.

On Queen Street, close to the centre of town, is Officers’ Square, considered to be the birthplace of the Canadian Army. Its buildings and Great Lawn were garrisoned by the British Army for over 80 years starting in 1785 and by the Canadian Army from 1883 to 1914. In warm months the area is used for concerts, live theatre and films. The former Officers’ Quarters now houses the Fredericton Region Museum, well worth a visit.

At the south edge of downtown stands the majestic Christ Church Cathedral, built between 1845 and 1853 and considered to be the first example of exacting Gothic Revival architecture in North America. It was declared a National Historic Site in 1983.

Shakespeare, 1960s style, in front of Christ Church Cathedral

On the Fredericton culture scene we have to give credit to the University of New Brunswick’s English department. Every year in early summer a professor organizes and directs an event called Bard in the Barracks, a pair of outdoor Shakespeare plays in downtown locations. We loved the performances of local talent in the rollicking comedy Merry Wives of Windsor, set by the director in the early 1960s with mafia influences. The clever set was built on the front lawn of the Christ Church Cathedral. This lesser known work alternated with Macbeth, performed in the Fredericton Botanic Garden.

QUIRKINESS. A quirky city is a fun city for both residents and visitors. Fredericton registers very high on the quirkiness scale. To wit:

• A stuffed 42 pound frog – The Coleman Frog – is on display at the Fredericton Region Museum. In 1885 it jumped into Fred Coleman’s canoe and quickly became a pet with a diet of buttermilk, whiskey and cornmeal. The giant amphibian died in 1899 and was preserved by a taxidermist.
  

  The 42 pound Coleman frog in the Fredericton Region Museum

• The same museum has a room dedicated to the work and sometimes questionable alien-visitor theories of Fredericton resident Stanton Friedman. Friedman was the original civilian investigator of the Roswell, New Mexico, UFO incident. He wrote many books and became known as the Flying Saucer Physicist.
  

  A museum room dedicated to Stanton Friedman, the Flying Saucer Physicist

• Perhaps coincidentally, the Flat Earth Society of Canada was founded in Fredericton.
• In 1882 Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde, dressed in velvet clothes with lacy cuffs, was booed and heckled in Fredericton while promoting Aestheticism, the philosophy of “art for art’s sake”. Apparently, it went against the dominant conservative Victorian sensibilities of the time.
• Three locally owned downtown shops are decidedly quirky. No velvet clothing at Happy Hatti but fashionably printed cotton designs using the centuries-old textile techniques of the owner’s native India. The Urban Almanac, a couple of blocks away brings an updated twist to the old-fashioned general store with a unique selection of antiques, sustainably resourced and hard-to-find vintage goods. The owner has added organic coffee roasting and Tasha Tea to the unusual mix. Nearby is Fresh Vintage, a store with curated antiques and modern design ideas. All three stores are great for browsing.
  

  The owner of Happy Hatti with some of her designs

• The city is filled with geeks. It’s a hub for cybersecurity with 70% of New Brunswick’s knowledge industry based in Fredericton. UNB has been graduating engineers since 1854.
• Canada’s first observatory was built in 1851 on the UNB campus.
• Fredericton was the first city in Canada to offer free, city-wide Wi-Fi.
• An old railway bridge, now used for walking and biking across the Saint John River, becomes an art gallery for a day. Art on the Bridge features scores of local art and artists using the girders to display and sell their works in a very unusual and colourful gallery.
  

  Art On The Bridge, a unique Fredericton gallery

• The annual New Brunswick Whisky Festival, now known as the Spirits Festival, is the oldest in Canada. Year-round, the Lunar Rogue Pub on King Street carries over 1,000 whisky (and whiskey) choices, making it one of the largest in the world.

For our final dinner in Fredericton we took a short side trip to the Village of Gagetown and a memorable meal at Gulliver’s World Café. The owner and chef, Thane Mallory, was trained at the prestigious Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon, France. In the off season he travels the world looking for creative culinary ideas and it shows in his imaginative cuisine.

Chef Thane Mallory of Gulliver’s in Gagetown

Gagetown is also worth a visit for its three ceramic studios and shops. The best known is Greig Pottery where you can watch the artist, Flo Greig, in her studio where she’s been working the wheel for 49 years. For Canadian history buffs, Gagetown is also the birthplace of Sir Samuel Leonard Tilley, one of the Fathers of Confederation. The house where Tilley was born and spent his boyhood is now a National Historic Site.

Gagetown potter Flo Greig in her workshop

Fredericton can be reached within a day’s drive from much of central Canada and New England. It’s worth the trip to see how a city, so small in size, can offer so much that’s unusual and unique.

A few more images from our trip. Click for full size images.

Photo Credits

All photos by Sandra and John Nowlan – All Rights Reserved

Captain Mike

Our main goal for a week-long road trip from Orlando to the northeast coast of Florida was to explore the fascinating history and culture of the area as well as sampling the cuisine, especially seafood for which the state is justly famous.

We found that renting a car at Orlando airport was relatively easy with no shuttle required to reach the rental lot. Unfortunately, printed road maps are no longer available at check-in so an effective GPS is a necessity, especially with Orlando’s heavy traffic and complex highway system.

Our tour included hotels and a B&B while visiting Orlando, St. Augustine and Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island. All three communities love to share their rich history and vibrant culture with guests like us. Here are some of the attractions we particularly enjoyed:

ORLANDO

• Winter Garden, a small city (pop 48,000) that’s part of greater Orlando, has a charming downtown filled with small, unique boutiques (no chain stores in sight) and a welcoming vibe we found very attractive. Two no-charge museums stand out. The Winter Garden Heritage Museum has a well maintained caboose out front and an interior focused on the community’s native and African American heritage as well as the rise and fall of the citrus industry. Dozens of labels from former orange producers fill the walls. Winter Garden was also a significant railway centre served by both the Atlantic Coast Line and Seaboard Coast Line. The Central Florida Railway Museum honours those past years with photos, models and railway memorabilia. Knowledgeable volunteers like Bill Puckett are delighted to discuss their passion for railroading.
  

  Railroad enthusiast Bill Puckett in the Central Florida Railway Museum

• The SOBO Art Gallery and Studio (named for its location on South Boyd Street), features excellent local art for sale and monthly art exhibits. In a back room, aspiring artists have classes and workshops.
• Since 2014 downtown Orlando has included the magnificent Dr. Phillips Center for the Performing Arts. The venue includes both 2700-seat and 1700-seat theatres. We were fortunate to be able to attend a more intimate concert by a local neo-soul, rhythm and blues band in the Judson’s Live auditorium with table settings for just 150 guests and a menu of exotic cocktails and small, creative plates.
  

  Soulful entertainment at Judson’s Live

ST. AUGUSTINE

• St. Augustine, founded by the Spanish in 1565, is the oldest continuously inhabited European established settlement in the United States. The city core is very walkable but we found the best way to absorb and appreciate its remarkable history is with the 90 minute, 22 stop, Hop-on, Hop-off narrated Trolley Tour.
• Several attractions on the Trolley Tour stood out for us. Castillo de San Marcos is the oldest masonry fort in the United States. The Spanish started construction in 1672 to defend Florida and protect the Atlantic trade route. It is remarkably well preserved.
  

  Castillo de San Marcos in St. Augustine

  Also well preserved is the oldest wooden schoolhouse in the United States where an animatronic teacher and “Dunce” student provide humourous commentary. Two former luxury hotels in St. Augustine were built in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style by oil and railway magnate Henry Flagler and were among the first buildings in the world to use poured concrete. Hotel Alcazar, built in 1887, is now the Lightner Museum, housing a grand collection of Gilded Age antiques. The 1888 Ponce de Leon Hotel is now the 2500 student, Flagler College. Design of its glorious interior was headed by Louis Tiffany. The woodwork, gold gilding and stained glass windows are stunning. In fact the college has the largest private collection of Tiffany stained glass in North America. It’s insured for more than 100 million dollars.

  

  The oldest wooden schoolhouse in the U.S.

• Our final stop in St. Augustine was among the most moving. The three-story Ximenez-Fatio House, built in 1798, was a boarding house for many years during the American slave era. An hour long tour includes talented, costumed actors performing short scenes that relive those dark days. A vivid eye-opener.
  

  Slave era drama at Ximenez Fatio House

AMELIA ISLAND

• A happy surprise for us was our far-from-ordinary Bed & Breakfast accommodation in the historic district of Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island, close to the border with Georgia. Fairbanks House is a glorious 8,000 square foot Italianate villa built in 1885 at the height of Fernandina’s Golden Era. The upscale neighbourhood has dozens of other stunning homes built in the late 1800s in Victorian or Classical Revival style. The city has published a complimentary pamphlet showcasing many of them.
  

  Fairbanks House, historic Amelia Island B&B

• Like many visitors we took the Cumberland Coastal Tour (Amelia River Cruises), sailing between Florida and Georgia along the shorelines of Amelia and Cumberland Islands. Wildlife sightings included playful dolphins and Cumberland wild horses. Several colourful shrimp boats are tied to docks on this pristine island but, sadly, the mood is broken by a huge, steaming shoreside pulp mill.
• For a small city (population, 14,000) Fernandina Beach has an excellent Museum of History in a former jail and a well-preserved Civil War era coastal garrison called Fort Clinch. The fort promotes living history and we enjoyed interacting with a knowledgeable gentleman in period costume.
  

  Fort Clinch on Amelia Island

CUISINE

We love fresh seafood so we were looking forward to stuffing ourselves with Florida’s famous shrimp and local fish like grouper, mahi-mahi and pompano. Large (often too large) portions are common in Florida restaurants but we were usually impressed with the quality of our meals:

• Our excellent Orlando accommodation (The Terraces at The Grove) had a dinner restaurant, Valencia, more like an aging Denny’s but its breakfast had outstanding coffee and a good choice of standard fare. Plant Street Market in Winter Garden is an indoor artisan venue featuring the Crooked Can Brewery and 20 local vendors serving wonderful natural, organic food. We enjoyed a delicious lunch with Bento Sushi and BBQ pork and beef. At the Judson’s Live venue in downtown Orlando (mentioned earlier), creative small plates prevailed.
  

  Crooked Can Brewery and the Plant Street Market. Local, ethnic food vendors.

• Two shrimp dishes stood out in St. Augustine. Our best large shrimps came from the Salt Life Food Shack. They were served on skewers with glazed pineapple and pineapple fried rice. O.C. White’s Seafood Restaurant combines history (it’s located in the Worth House, circa 1790) with excellent cuisine. Its blackened shrimp and grits with cheese, bacon, and green onions was a hit with both of us. The Columbia Restaurant is a huge Spanish/Cuban eatery holding 700 guests. It’s usually full but service is very efficient and the food, especially our fresh grouper topped with local blue crab, was succulent. Being in Florida we expected fresh salads and two restaurants delivered. La Cocino, part of the San Sebastian Winery, had an excellent winter salad with roasted squash, cucumber curls, and local red datil peppers. The Ice House, a tall, spacious converted 1927 ice storage warehouse, now a popular farm to table restaurant, served our best arugula and kale salad with apple, fennel, hazelnuts, and pomegranate. A creative chef!

   

• Florida’s lucrative shrimp industry had its beginnings in Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island in the early 1900s. As expected, even its fried fish take-out was extraordinary. Our golden basket at Timoti’s included deep fried shrimp, fries, hush puppies, and a giant fish sandwich. At The Salty Pelican, a busy waterfront restaurant and sports bar, we enjoyed its signature dish, blue crab dip. We could also choose among Shrimp & Oysters, a pound or half pound of local ‘peel ‘n eat’ shrimp, or fried gator bits. We can’t talk about food on Amelia Island without mentioning the breakfast at our historic B&B, Fairbanks House. The full breakfast, served with real silverware and nice china, included juice, fresh blueberries with sweet cream, blackberry waffles with chicken sausage and banana bread. A wonderful ending to a week of outstanding hospitality.
  

  Locals love their seafood take-out. Shrimp and fish at Timoti’s

Sadly, there is now some tension in U.S.-Canada relations because of the tariff threats and talk of Canada becoming the “51^st State”. Florida tourism officials we met were very concerned about a drop off in Canadian tourists. Hopefully relations can soon return to their normal friendly state.

A few more images from our trip. Click for full size images.

Photo Credits

All photos by Sandra and John Nowlan – All Rights Reserved

Viking Idi on the Moselle

Our Viking itinerary started in Paris and ended in Prague but there was no sailing on France’s Seine River or the Czech Republic’s Moldau. Instead, guests were treated to two days in Paris and another two days in Prague, both at fine hotels with complimentary city tours provided.

The view from the Nowlan’s Paris hotel.

The actual river cruise only began on Day 3. After a long, four hour bus ride including a quick visit through Luxembourg we finally boarded the Viking Idi, docked along the Moselle River, in Germany’s oldest city, Trier. A highlight was the Porta Nigra City Gate dating from the 2nd century AD. It’s considered the best preserved Roman gate in the world.

Viking guide and Trier City Gate from 2 AD

The 190 passenger Viking Idi, one of 80 Longships in the company’s extensive river cruise fleet, is 10 years old but seemed to be very well maintained. Like most Longboats it’s 135 meters long and 11 meters wide with a cordial crew of 53. It’s a tight fit in the many locks in the rivers. The staff was attentive and professional during all seven days as we sailed the Moselle, Rhine and Main Rivers. Rooms seemed a bit small (ours, on the second deck, was 205 square feet including a tiny, two chair balcony) but well planned and functional with floor to ceiling windows, both U.S. and European electric outlets, excellent lighting and air conditioning, even a heated bathroom floor and fog free mirrors. Fresh fruit in our room was replenished daily. Slippers were provided but in only one size. Too small for John; too big for Sandra. Deck 3 includes 275 square feet junior suites and two Explorer suites, each 445 square feet. All rooms have a fridge but only the pricier third deck has fridges stocked with drinks.

Compact but comfortably stateroom with small balcony

The lounge (forward on Deck 3) is used for all briefings and entertainment. In addition to a resident pianist, several local musical acts, even a glass blower, were brought aboard in the evening. With a full ship the lounge can get very crowded with poor sight lines for many guests.

A variety of evening entertainments

The Viking Idi’s Restaurant (forward on Deck 2) can accommodate all guests with tables for six or eight. The arrangement encourages conversation with fellow guests, primarily American but with a sprinkling of Canadian and British. A small, optional dining area called Aquavit, near the bow on Deck 3, does have tables for two or four but the menu is identical. As on most cruise ships, an “always available” menu – salmon, chicken, steak – is popular but most guests chose the regional specialties like zwiebelrostbraten (braised beef) or wienerschnitzel, accompanied by complimentary Moselle or Rhine wines. Regular or non-alcoholic beer is also available but Viking does not yet stock some of the better non-alcohol wines. Overall, we were very impressed with the quality and variety of the cuisine.

Most guests chose this 12 day Viking itinerary because it included four countries – France, Luxembourg, Germany and the Czech Republic – and three European river systems. A few complained to us about the long bus rides from Paris and to Prague but it was convenient to fly into and out of major cities. Similar to other Viking river cruises, the guests were generally well educated, often retired with an average age of 65 to 70.

After leaving Trier we sailed downstream on the Moselle, enveloped by what appeared to be endless, steep riverbanks full of vineyards. Every available acre on the south facing hills was covered by grape vines.

Vineyards along the Moselle

The Moselle soon joined the even wider and busier Rhine where we turned upriver for a glorious afternoon of top deck relaxing as about 20 ancient castles, some well preserved and some in ruins, crowned steep hills on both sides of the ship.

Towns and Castles on the beautiful Rhine River

Comfortable Viking busses took guests on a full day tour of Heidelberg, home of Germany’s oldest university. In addition to stunning views of the town from the 12th century Heidelberg Castle, lunch for all was arranged in a large beer hall with university students at each table anxious to improve their English. A unique opportunity for international friendship.

A long but comfortable four hour Viking bus ride to the Longboat

Our second last day on Viking Idi was among the most memorable. We took the optional, extra cost tour to Rothenburg, considered the best preserved medieval town in Germany. The 2.4 kilometre wall connects five gates with 13th to 16th century guard towers. Our included lunch was traditional stuffed cabbage rolls. Afterwards we stopped in Wurzburg for a tour of the opulent Bishops’ Residenz. In the 1700s, prince-bishops wielded enormous power and wealth so one of them decided a grand palace would be an appropriate recognition of his importance. It includes the largest ceiling fresco in the world and dazzling rooms that rival Versailles.

Bishops’ Residenz ceiling in Wurzburg

Overnight we left the mighty Rhine and joined the more tranquil Main River towards our final port, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town of Bamberg. Now the northern terminus of the Main-Danube Canal, Bamberg was the center of the Holy Roman Empire in the 11th century. The charming town is best known for its Rathaus (Town Hall), built in the middle of a bridge in the 1400s (now a museum). We enjoyed Bamberg’s unique (and very tasty) smoky beer.

Old City Hall in Bamberg

In Bamberg all Viking guests disembarked the ship and boarded buses for the four hour drive to Prague. Our one break enroute was in the Bavarian city of Nuremberg, site of the emotional Nuremberg Trials, where high profile Nazis leaned their fate at the end of World War 2. Nuremberg was chosen for the trials because it was the site of the most massive Nazi rallies where Hitler gave rousing speeches to adoring crowds. That huge field and stadium was our first stop where an excellent tour guide told us about the rallies and their impact. Then we headed for the market square for lunch and a final taste of excellent German bratwurst and beer.

Hitler’s Rally Stadium in Nuremberg

Two days in Prague, including a walking tour of its Old Town and a chance to sample traditional dumplings stuffed with smoked ham and smothered with onion and cabbage, proved to be a fitting end to an excellent twelve days with Viking. With the long bus rides at both ends of the tour it’s not for everyone. But if a touch of Viking restlessness and love of travel inspires you, the chance to experience four countries, three major rivers, scores of castles and many UNESCO World Heritage sites, all under the care of Europe’s most experienced river cruise line, makes the adventure very worthwhile.

Here are a few more photos from our journey. Click for larger images.

Photo Credits

All Photos by John and Sandra Nowlan – All Rights Reserved

The Ambassador section with its massive pool

The expansive 206 acre property includes 539 large, luxurious suites, all at least 1,100 square feet, divided into three sections, each with a massive swimming pool. The adult only Grand Class and the family friendly Ambassador sections are located in front of an attractive, very walkable white sand beach. There were few swimmers, mainly because the water was shallow with some rocks underfoot. The other section, Zen Grand Suites, is a kilometre inland, carved out of mangrove and Yucatan jungle foliage.

The Nowlan’s large room in the Zen section

We always enjoy an ocean view but after a few days at Zen we appreciated the high end, thoughtful amenities in our suite and the quiet jungle environment, surrounded by exotic flora and fauna. All suites have a personal concierge to look after every need. Zen includes a gourmet Asian restaurant and an excellent buffet, especially for breakfast (including a wonderful selection of fresh fruit and juices). A very efficient shuttle system – never more than a three minute wait – takes visitors to the waterfront Ambassador and Grand Class buildings where three of Mexico’s best restaurants are located.

Breakfast buffet in Zen section

Cocina de Autor was the first all-inclusive resort restaurant in the world to receive a AAA Five Diamond award. It was well deserved if playfulness, creativity and great taste were the criteria. From local products the chefs prepared ten imaginative small and medium sized plates for us, all expertly served by an attentive, well trained staff and accompanied by excellent Mexican and international wines. Ingredients included spider crab, smoky tuna, honeydew shrimp, striped bass, Mexican bald pork and bone marrow accompanied by jackfruit, figs, black garlic, kohlrabi, caviar and yogurt. Two desserts rounded out the almost three hour extravaganza, one with chocolate and sesame seeds, the other with blueberries, mascarpone and honey. It was a memorable experience.

Equally memorable the next day was the four course dinner at the resort’s elegant French restaurant, Piaf (named for the famous Parisian chanteuse, Edith Piaf). Decorated in tasteful red and black with Swarovski crystal curtains and a fresh red rose at every table, the menu was traditional French but with extra flair and imagination. The chef’s escargot appetizer, for instance, was not just snails in garlic butter but included tartiflette, Morbier cheese and watercress purée. The soup course (French onion or lobster bisque) was followed by a choice of five meat, five fish or four vegetarian entrées. We chose tender beef short rib with dauphine potatoes, blue cheese sauce and coffee foam as well as lamb cooked two ways with stuffed artichokes. Desserts included pear in red wine sauce with almond crust and a dark chocolate soufflé with passion fruit sauce. Grand Velas clearly finds top international chef talent for its restaurants.

The elegant French restaurant, Piaf

We expected the Mexican restaurant, Frida, to be outstanding. And it was. A surprising beginning for all guests were the small bowls of fried grasshoppers, ants and red worms. A yukky reaction quickly turned to smiles as most guests found the unusual appetizers to be crispy and tasty. The main courses continued the resort’s commitment to creative cuisine using mole, mezcal vinaigrette, truffles, black recado (spice paste), huitlacoche (a black corn fungus tasting like truffle) and chipotle molasses to enhance grouper, salmon, shrimp, octopus, beef fillet, duck confit and suckling pig entrees.

A Mexican surprise. Fried grasshoppers, ants and red worms

The daily schedule at Grans Velas Riviera Maya includes complimentary chocolate, tequila and mezcal tastings (even pairing the drinks with mole samples) as well as guided tours of Zen’s jungle habitat, ending with samples of three unique types of Mexican honey. We appreciated the fact that all bars and restaurants also have non-alcohol beer and wines available. We love good coffee, especially at breakfast, but found the quality of the java in all restaurants to be mediocre.

Mexican honey tastings after Zen tour

Many guests come to this Grand Velas resort for its remarkable 90,000 square foot Spa located in the Zen section. Forbes Travel Guide gives it five stars and Virtuoso calls it “the best in the world”. Skin therapies and massages are combined with Mexican holistic rituals to relax and rejuvenate. Guests begin with the Water Ceremony – a steam room with herbal infusion, an exfoliation room, an ice room, various hot and cold showers and several hydrotherapy pools before the traditional Mexican treatments begin. Sandra chose a signature Bacal (Corn Cob) Massage. In Mayan culture, corn is a sacred plant. The unique experience began with therapist Sebastiana performing a short Mayan ceremony honoring the four elements (earth, air, fire and water) followed by dry corn meal and honey exfoliation to detoxify the skin. Then a massage with copal oil using hot corn cobs to apply pressure. After the eighty minute treatment Sandra’s muscles were tingling and she felt very refreshed.

Sebastiana with hot corn cob, ready for Sandra’s Mayan treatments

Our stay at Grand Velas Riviera Maya was just three days but we could easily observe why the resort deserves its stellar international reputation for fine cuisine, unique spa treatments and outstanding, friendly service.

Here are a few more photos from our stay. Click for larger images.

Photo Credits

All photos by John and Sandra Nowlan – All Rights Reserved

In many ways she was correct. On our week long visit to the Florida Keys and Key West we found the laid back locals loved their unique region and embraced a “live and let live” philosophy. In fact, since 1982 the Keys have declared themselves the Conch Republic, after a short lived and humorous declaration of independence following U.S. Border Patrol roadblocks and inspections of anyone entering or leaving the Keys. The “Secession” of the Conch Republic is still celebrated every April.

Key West is known for its glorious sunsets

The geography of the Florida Keys is, of course, also unique. Driving south on U.S. 1 from the Miami airport, urban sprawl suddenly gives way to a different world – the protected Everglades, vast flat acres of scrub brush and soggy marshes. That area is soon replaced by small communities and the remarkable Overseas Highway, 100 miles from Key Largo to Key West, connecting 44 low-lying tropical islands with 42 bridges. This engineering marvel was completed in 1935 after a hurricane destroyed many of the railway bridges that had linked the Keys since 1912.

The long crossing, with the Atlantic Ocean on the left and the Gulf of Mexico on the right, is spectacular but there are also several unique attractions worth a stop. The African Queen, the iconic steamboat used in the classic 1951 movie starring Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn, continues to take visitors on short cruises along the Key Largo Canal. Built in England in 1912, the original steam engine is still in place but a disguised outboard is now used for power. The entertaining operator is a movie trivia master.

The African Queen, the steamboat used in the classic 1951 movie.

The Florida Keys are famous for excellent SCUBA diving and the History of Diving Museum in Islamorada contains the world’s largest collection of underwater breathing devices, some going back centuries. Modern diving techniques are used by staff members at the Mote Marine Lab in the Lower Keys. Open to the public for scheduled tours, this facility is the International Center for Coral Reef Research and Restoration. Scientists here identify threats to the fragile coral of the Keys and cultivate it for transplanting onto dying reefs.

The longest island-hopping span in the Keys is the modern Seven Mile Bridge. Completed in 1982 it runs parallel to the former highway and old railway structure. Visitors with an interest in Keys history can walk or take a tram along the old rail bed to tiny Pigeon Key, a National Historic Landmark. This two acre island includes eight well preserved buildings used to house and feed more than 400 workers who completed Henry Flagler’s vision and built the Key West extension of the Florida East Coast Railway more than a century ago. Vintage photographs and artifacts line the walls of the Museum.

Entering the city of Key West, the southernmost point of the U.S mainland, is also a step back in time. The low rise architecture in this city of 27,000 includes more than 1,000 elegant wooden two story shuttered houses dating from the late 1800s. Known as Conch Houses, short wooden posts raise them off the ground to improve air circulation in hot summers.

The most visited attraction in Key West is the Ernest Hemingway House, built in French Colonial Style in 1851 and the residence of the world renowned writer in the 1930s. Containing many artifacts and treasures from Hemingway’s time in Key West, tourists also love the dozens of cats, most of which are polydactyl (six toed) that roam freely in the house and on the grounds. Also unusual in Key West but scattered across the city are hundreds of free range roosters. These handsome birds came originally from Cuba and were used for cockfighting until that “sport” was outlawed. Then they were left on their own to prowl the town and delight visitors.

Roosters roam freely on the streets of Key West

Two other historic homes in Key West worth a visit are the Harry Trueman Little White House, the winter home of the 33rd U.S. president, and the soon to be opened Elizabeth Bishop House, the Pulitzer Prize winning U.S. Poet Laureate. There’s another Elizabeth Bishop House in Great Village, Nova Scotia, where, as a youth, she spent many summers with her maternal grandparents.

A nightly Key West tradition is the sunset celebration in Mallory Square. Bustling with street performers, food & craft carts, psychics and musicians, the highlight of this lively scene is nature’s often spectacular light show at sundown. We were treated to one of the best.

The quirky Hungry Tarpon restaurant

The Florida Keys are often described as “The Fishing Capital of the World” and we took full advantage of its reputation. With local varieties like snapper, grouper, hogfish, wahoo, mahi mahi, conch, and crab we decided to make seafood part of every lunch and dinner. It was a wise choice. Most of the seafood restaurants offer fresh caught products in many styles – grilled, fried, sauteed or blackened. If you catch it they will cook it for you. For lunch we usually had conch fritters, fish tacos or fish sandwiches, always with an oversized portion of fresh seafood. At the Fish House in Key Largo, one of two restaurants we visited that had been featured on Guy Fieri’s Food Network series, Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, we enjoyed the House Specialty, Mahi Mahi Matecumbe Style, baked and topped with fresh tomatoes, shallots, fresh basil, capers, olive oil, and lemon juice. Outstanding! We were also invited to the back of the kitchen to observe a skilled chef fillet a large mahi mahi. Other remarkable seafood restaurants included Chef Michael’s in Islamorada (“Juliette” Hogfish – pan seared with shrimp, scallops, chardonnay butter, and toasted almonds) and two restaurants connected to our accommodation – Margaritaville Beach House in Key West and The Angler & Ale at the Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key. Our last lunch before heading home was at the quirky Hungry Tarpon in Islamorada. Its ceiling and walls are plastered with US $1 bills while guests can enjoy the company of dozens of pelicans while feeding giant tarpon and other fish species that congregate around the restaurant’s pier.

While seafood came in many styles we found that the region’s signature dessert, Key Lime Pie, also had distinctive variations among restaurants and specialty shops. Being keen researchers we tried more than a dozen slices and found that a smooth, pale yellow filling was consistent. However, toppings varied widely with thick or thin meringue or globs of whipped topping. The graham cracker crusts were thick, thin or with added molasses but most were tasty. Our biggest disappointment with most fillings was the lack of tart lime flavor. They were just too bland. Some of the best slices, with all elements in harmony and a very limey filling, were at The Anchor & Ale, Margaritaville Beach House and Kermit’s Key West Lime Shop.

U.S. Highway 1 is the longest north-south road in the United States. We’ve often driven along its northern areas. But now we have more respect for its southern extremity. As someone wisely noted, “If you take the best qualities of a New England and Maritime Province seaside town, add a laid-back atmosphere, you’ve essentially got the Florida Keys.”

Photo Credits

All photos by John and Sandra Nowlan – All Rights Reserved

Seven Seas Splendor docked in Cozumel.

Regent holds a unique place in the world of cruising. The high end brand of parent Norwegian Cruise Line, its five ships are in the rarified ultra-luxury category but Regent stands out by offering a complete all-inclusive package. Included in the price are a spacious suite with balcony, all meals (including specialty restaurants), drinks (including beer, wine, spirits and cocktails), tours (with a wide variety of choices in each port), gratuities, airport and hotel transfers, even laundry and pressing. In some categories first class flights and pre-cruise hotels are included.

As soon as we boarded Seven Seas Splendor, Regent’s newest ship, for a week long Caribbean cruise from Miami the luxury and service stood out. Walking around with welcome champagne in hand, the 46,000 square feet of fine Italian marble on walls and floors and more than 500 stunning chandeliers created an ambience unlike any we’ve experienced in 25 years of cruising. The ship, launched in 2020, has a capacity of just 750 guests, all in balcony suites ranging from an impressive 307 to more than 4000 square feet. The crew of 550 provides the best staff to guest ratio at sea. Their friendliness, training and attention to guest needs were evident all week.

Fine Italian marble. The entrance to the main dining room.

We were in one of the smaller suites but were impressed with the layout and generous storage spaces including a walk-in closet. The long couch and convenient work desk were separated from the bed area by privacy blackout curtains while the balcony with its generous table and two cushioned wicker chairs was one of the largest we’ve ever seen. The bed itself was extremely comfortable with high thread count sheets and excellent adjustable reading lights. There were several convenient USB and power outlets. The small fridge could be filled with whatever complimentary drinks we wanted. The marble lined bathroom included a large shower area with both a regular shower head and a rainforest-style shower.

Our suite was near the back of the ship so we could occasionally hear engine rumble, especially when getting underway or docking. But we think the general room soundproofing is excellent since the ship was full and we didn’t hear a sound from any of our neighbours.

Room service on balcony.

Rooms are cleaned and refreshed twice a day with newspaper summaries (from the USA, Canada, Britain and other countries) put on the bed each evening along with tomorrow’s schedule (the spacious library includes a daily, full edition of the New York Times). The large, high resolution TV had many free movies available but satellite broadcast channel choices were limited.

Regent continues to excel in its culinary program. The Hotel General Manager, Anatoli Makaev, told us that food costs, per person, are the highest at sea. Regent, he said, is spending three times more for food than before the pandemic. Unlike other lines, there have been no cutbacks in quality or quantity. Chefs continued to get paid during the Covid years and their commitment to guest satisfaction is evident.

For a ship with fewer than 800 passengers, the restaurant and menu choices were remarkable. Every evening in the main dining room, Compass Rose, guests could choose from an “Always Available” menu (from Alaska Crab to New Zealand lamb) or the daily specials including the Executive Chef’s six course “Gourmet Tasting Menu”. A healthy Spa menu was also available. Good quality red, white, rosé or sparkling wines were offered without extra cost each day, even non-alcoholic wines if you wished. Three uniquely decorated specialty restaurants offer French cuisine (Chartreuse), Asian fare (Pan Pacific) or Steaks and Seafood (Prime 7).

The large buffet restaurant on Deck 11, La Veranda, has an excellent selection of breakfast and lunch items. White tablecloths are standard throughout the area (most unusual for a cruise ship buffet) and are a classy touch in the evening when much of La Veranda becomes a fine Italian restaurant, Sette Mari. Coffee quality in the buffet was only fair but outstanding brews were always available at the 5th deck Coffee Connection.

Part of the buffet restaurant.

Seven Seas Splendor has a well equipped fitness center and a Spa at the stern of the ship. We discovered the uncrowded Infinity Swimming Pool as part of the Spa and preferred it to the large, main pool on Deck 11.

The uncrowded Infinity Pool.

Splendor’s entertainment was, as expected, of a high caliber with a dozen talented singers and dancers, accompanied by the ship band, putting on several complex main stage productions in the evening. The Regent Signature Orchestra, the Cocktail pianist and a DJ also played music for listening or dancing each evening in several lounges throughout the ship. We were disappointed that the ship’s entertainment did not include a string quartet or even a solo cello or harp. Classical music would have been a lovely touch in the pre-dinner period.

Complex production shows in main theatre.

There was no shortage of games and puzzles throughout the ship. Trivia, Bingo, darts, shuffle golf and beanbag toss were among several ways guests competed for coveted Regent points and prizes at the end of the cruise. We were also pleased to see and hear a retired history professor give illustrated lectures about subjects ranging from Mayan civilization to the Caribbean connection in World War II.

The ship itself was clearly the star of our week-long cruise from Miami but the itinerary was fascinating too. We docked in Roatan, Honduras, for an island tour and swim, then stopped the next day in nearby Belize, the only English speaking country in Central America. Sandra joined a tour to a spice farm where the two chefs from the Culinary Arts Kitchen collected spices to be used in a hands-on cooking class back on the ship. In the meantime John visited a typical Mayan village off the grid where a chocolate maker showed how cacao beans were harvested and turned into the popular sweet treats.

The Culinary Arts Kitchen.

Our planned stop in Costa Maya, Mexico, was cancelled because seas were too rough to dock but Cozumel was more tranquil and we relived our youth by boarding a two-person mini speedboat and racing through choppy water with other boats before stopping for a snorkel in warm, pristine waters filled with tropical fish.

Mini speedboat tour in Cozumel. Tied together for snorkeling.

Seven Seas Splendor has been called, “the most luxurious cruise ship in the world”. In many ways it’s true. But later in 2023, Regent is launching Seven Seas Grandeur, a sister ship to Splendor. With subtle improvements, Grandeur is now likely to claim the “most luxurious” title. It will be fun to find out.

A few more photos from our trip. Click to enlarge.

Photo Credits

All photos by John and Sandra Nowlan – All Rights Reserved

The view from all guest suites. The golf course back nine and the Northumberland Strait.

Ron Joyce’s original idea was to attract the rich and famous to the gated community of Fox Harb’r by adding a few private townhouses. That vision has now evolved into a five star, four diamond resort handling up to 220 guests in 88 large suites facing the ocean, a high end restaurant with fresh produce from the resort’s own greenhouse, a vineyard and a Two Goblet designation from Wine Spectator Magazine. The resort eventually added a spa with a junior Olympic swimming pool, a sheltered marina that can handle two dozen yachts up to 80 feet in length, kayaking & paddle boarding, tennis/pickleball courts, a fully stocked trout pond and a rustic Sporting Lodge built with post and beam construction. The lodge includes a floor to ceiling fireplace and leather furniture from the former home of Johnny Cash. Activities include archery, axe throwing and skeet shooting.

The resort’s Junior Olympic size swimming pool.

In 2001 the Par 72 Fox Harb’r Golf Course, planned by renowned designer Graham Cooke, was named the best new course in Canada by Golf Digest Magazine and remains one of Canada’s finest. In 2009 the course record – a 63 – was shot by Tiger Woods.

The resort is still secluded and its low key entrance can be easily missed by drivers along Nova Scotia’s Sunrise Trail and the cutoff to the small community of Fox Harbour. Once through the gates and along Amazing Grace Boulevard the excellent landscaping is immediately evident.

For check-in, visitors stop at the new Joyce Centre, a 37,000 square foot building overlooking the 9th hole and Northumberland Strait that includes a modern convention center, with a reception area, a ballroom/banquet hall and several boardrooms.

The Joyce Centre. Registration area and convention space.

Our comfortable suite was in one of fourteen, two story buildings running parallel to the golf course and the saltwater shoreline. Extremely generous in size by hotel standards, our unit included a living room with floor to ceiling windows, a gas fireplace and a door leading to a balcony overlooking action on the back nine combined with the bracing aroma of fresh sea air. The room had a large, flat screen TV, coffee maker, microwave oven and well stocked fridge. The separate bedroom had a very comfortable king size bed with its own TV while the well-lit bathroom featured a granite, heated floor, a two person therapeutic tub with fluffy towels and high end toiletries by Molton Brown. The welcome sparkling wine in the room came from the Fox Harb’r Vineyard. Nova Scotia white wines, in particular, are outstanding.

Suite living rooms with gas fireplaces.

Fox Harb’r takes its cuisine seriously in both the main Cape Cliff Dining Room and Willard Gastropub with a menu featuring produce from its on-site greenhouse, meat from local farmers and fresh seafood obtained just minutes away. Through the spring, summer and fall season special dinners are often planned. The Fox Harb’r President Kevin Toth, told us his culinary goal is to celebrate and elevate the local cuisine.

Dinner in the evening, one of several special events throughout the season, featured a winemaker from British Columbia who talked talk about his award winning vineyard and offered pairings with each of the seven courses prepared by Executive Sous Chef Jeff McInnis and his team. Chef McInnis has now been promoted to Executive Chef for the 2023 season. Among our favourite dishes were halibut crudo with caviar and fresh herbs, scallops with coconut and green apple and braised pork shoulder with celeriac, apple and onions. The BC wines were a perfect compliment.

Chef Jeff McInnis and his kitchen staff

Next morning we had breakfast in the main dining room before we left for home. The Lobster Benedict was a culinary delight. Lots of fresh lobster with a perfectly toasted English muffin and a sublime hollandaise sauce. A wonderful ending to an all-too-short stay at a resort that clearly puts Nova Scotia on the map for high quality, high end accommodation and cuisine. It’s not just for golf anymore.

A breakfast treat. Lobster Benedict.

A few more photos from our trip. Click to enlarge.

The Resort Website: www.foxharbr.com

Photo Credits

Photos by John and Sandra Nowlan – All Rights Reserved

Our seven day Caribbean cruise from Fort Lauderdale aboard the line’s newest ship, Celebrity Beyond, left us in awe of its startling architecture and many innovations.

Celebrity Beyond with its efficient parabolic bow.

Celebrity Beyond, at 140,000 gross tons, was built in France and entered service in April of 2022. Holding about 3300 passengers, its distinctive physical features make it stand out in any port. It’s easy to spot the unusual parabolic bow (designed for better water flow) and the unique Magic Carpet, a wide orange platform that juts out from the starboard side of the ship, moves up and down over 13 stories, and serves as a bar, restaurant and tender platform.

The moveable Magic Carpet on the starboard side, used as a bar, restaurant and tender platform.

Innovations continue inside the ship. Boarding usually happens in the three-story central Grand Plaza. A massive chandelier of color changing LED lights rises over the main feature, the huge Martini Bar where waiters entertain regularly with their cocktail juggling skills. Many large cruise ships have glass enclosed elevators in this central area in addition to fore and aft elevator banks but Beyond has only two sets of stairs and lifts located near the front and back of the ship. It means a bit more walking and occasional congestion. But strolling from bow to stern is a great way to appreciate the imaginative art work, the distinctive public rooms and passageways plus the creative use of light and color. It takes several days to explore the whole ship.

At the stern of Celebrity Beyond, where most ships of this size have the main dining room, the designers placed Eden, a huge area with three full stories of glass providing remarkable water views from the bar, the lounge, an entertainment area and the excellent specialty restaurant.

Deck 14 includes an open air 25 yard lap pool, one of the largest at sea. On the same deck, just before the Spa is the adult-only Solarium, a dome covered area with a pool, hot tubs and comfortable loungers. One deck up is the splendid and well cared for Rooftop Garden with its own bar and grill, a giant screen for movies and the ship’s unique meandering jogging track that includes a gentle incline to Deck 16. Five laps to a mile.

The hallways, rooms and suites on Beyond are all tastefully decorated in muted shades of gray and maroon. Most ocean facing rooms boast another Celebrity innovation, the Infinite Balcony. Instead of a door leading to a standard balcony, that popular feature is part of the enhanced room size. At the touch of a button, the top half of the full frame window drops down providing sea air and an unobstructed view. The “balcony” area has chairs and more buttons to lower shades or draw a curtain to provide privacy. Most reviews we’ve seen love the feature but several people miss the standard balcony.

The ship wasn’t full and we enjoyed an upgrade to a Sky Suite, the entry level suite with a standard balcony and about 300 square feet of space. It had a king size bed, a sofa, plenty of storage space and a bathroom with a full tub and shower plus a wide sink suitable for two. The room included plush bathrobes but slippers in only one size. Too big for Sandra; too small for John. We missed having bedside reading lights, perhaps related to the fact that Celebrity Beyond has no library or even a common “take one; leave one” book corner. The large TV had the usual news channels (MSNBC, Fox and BBC) but no CNN. Also, unlike other ships we’ve been on, there were no music channels.

Cuisine has always been a strong point on Celebrity cruises and the innovations continued on Beyond. Instead of a main dining room, the designers created four separate complimentary dining areas – Cyprus, Normandie, Tuscan and Cosmopolitan. Each has a distinctive international theme plus dishes standard to all four restaurants. Up on Deck 14 the popular buffet, Oceanview Café, was laid out in a dozen or more food islands, each with its own specialty. Much superior to the buffets on most cruise ships, we never experienced overcrowding and the food choices at breakfast and lunch were excellent.

A variety of smoked salmon at the excellent buffet.

Most new cruise ships have expanded the number of extra-cost specialty restaurants and Celebrity has joined this trend. We tried three of them, Eden, Fine Cut Steakhouse and Le Voyage by Daniel Boulud. Along with outstanding service we enjoyed some of our best ever lamb shank, crab cakes, lobster casserole, prime rib and filet mignon. Surprisingly, our only disappointing meal was at Luminae, the high end restaurant exclusively for suite guests where the fish was less than prime. We were told that sometimes there was a seafood supply problem.

Beyond is an appropriate description of the main theatre on this ship. The dazzling technology is state-of-the-art with a 20 foot tall, $5 million LED backscreen containing 17 million pixels and curving 110 feet around the thrust stage. It’s put to good use with imaginative shows often featuring a live band with a dozen or more singers, dancers and acrobats.

Spectacular song and dance shows most evenings.

The main theatre was where guests were first introduced to Captain Kate McCue, the first American born female captain of a mega cruise ship. Full of personality as well as having fine nautical skills, she always travels with her cat, a hairless, Elf Ear Sphynx named Bug Naked. Later in the cruise she and Bug Naked took to the stage at The Club, another entertainment venue, to lead a trivia quiz about hairless cats and to answer questions.

Captain Kate McCue introduces her senior officers.

Entertainment seemed almost non-stop on Celebrity Beyond with music (from classical to rock) and games (like Trivia and “Yes or No”) in The Club, Eden, the Rooftop Garden and the Grand Plaza. We were disappointed that the ship offered no enrichment lectures with specialists on Caribbean history, current events and the like. Also, there were no live port talks in advance of our various stops. Instead, there was tour information on our TVs.

The Grand Plaza Martini Bar with its juggling bartenders.

Technology now plays a key role in entertainment and guest experience. Most guests seemed to have smart phones and they’re quickly becoming a necessity to access restaurant menus, up-to-date information on events and tour details. Leisure travel on cruise ships is changing fast. Overall, though, we were very impressed with Celebrity Beyond, especially its service staff, cuisine and imaginative architecture.

Photo Credits

Photos by John and Sandra Nowlan – All Rights Reserved

Stepping out of our plane into the brilliant Dominican Republic sunshine after a non-stop flight from Canada, we were very impressed by the low rise, thatched roof buildings of the Punta Cana International Airport. Even better, in spite of several planes unloading guests, the customs formalities were brisk and efficient.

Punta Cana Airport

Leaving the airport and heading towards our resort, it was obvious that tourism is a huge industry here in the eastern half of the Caribbean island of Hispaniola, shared with the troubled country of Haiti. Billboards promote the many attractions of this region of the DR including water parks, zip lines, jungle buggies and the Coco Bongo show – “Puts Vegas Nightlife to Shame”.

For the moment we were more interested in a few days of  pampered relaxation adjacent to warm salt water. We found it at the Bahia Principe Luxury Ambar, a five star resort with eleven, three story buildings close to spectacular Bavaro Beach.

Ambar. Main Lobby

Bahia Principe, a Spanish chain with a major presence in the Caribbean, actually runs seven adjacent resorts on the huge property with 13,000 guests and 5,000 staff, each of the seven with its own distinctive flavour. Our resort, Amber, built in 2006 with 528 rooms was the closest to the turquoise Caribbean. It was totally renovated in 2018 and added a coffee shop and sports bar. The soaring all-white lobby with marble floors was gorgeous while each of the first floor suites had a new, swim-out pool attached.

Swim Out Suites

The rooms themselves were large, well equipped and kept meticulously clean. There were excellent reading lights and generous closet space. Guests at each of the seven resorts had a coloured wristband with a chip inside acting as the door key. Very convenient! Some of the rooms in the other six adjacent resorts were a kilometre or more from the beach but an efficient shuttle service ran back and forth every few minutes.

Ambar. The Main Pool

All seven resorts have a grand buffet restaurant (with an excellent selection for breakfast, lunch and dinner) and several reservation-required specialty restaurants including Italian, Japanese (with a Tepanyaki table), Seafood, Mexican, Greek and Brazilian. All of them required a spray of hand sanitizer before entering, especially important these days.

The specialty restaurants we tried all had imaginative architecture and a very friendly wait staff (although some had limited English skills). In addition to the buffet, our favourites were Limbo (the “gourmet” restaurant with smaller, imaginative dishes) and M.E.A.T., designed for lovers of beef, chicken and pork. The Asian fusion restaurant had an outstanding far-east setting but the appetizer table had too many deep fried dishes cooked too long in advance.

Open Kitchen at M.E.A.T. Restaurant

All of the restaurants offered complimentary Spanish house wines (the rosé was excellent, the white good and the red barely passable) but most included a choice of unique pre-meal cocktails, prepared by chief mixologist Jonathan and his talented team.

Jonathan. Master Mixologist

There were lots of activities during the day including pool games, Spanish lessons, tequila tastings and yoga. At Ambar each evening there was singing or dancing entertainment in the large lobby but the better bet in the evening was the large Tropicana Theatre, reached by trolley in Bahia Punta Cana section. The Circus Show we saw had acts approaching Cirque du Soleil quality.

Circus Show in Main Theatre

For a quality Caribbean beach, it’s hard to beat Playa Bavaro, one of the finest stretches of fine, white sand and warm, clear water in the world. With a length of almost 50 kilometres, it’s the centerpiece of Dominican tourism. The Bahaia Principe resorts are adjacent to a prime section of the beach with plenty of palm trees and layers of loungers.

Bavaro Beach. Endless Sand

Yes, the beach can be crowded and some object to the strolling cigar, clothing and souvenir vendors (all beaches in the DR are public) but we always found a comfortable lounger in the shade. Twice a day a cart comes by with free ice cream.

Ice Cream for Guests

Because the beach is so attractive many guests never leave the resort but there are plenty of options for those wanting a day long break. The most popular ones include a visit to the historic capital city of Santo Domingo and snorkeling expeditions on a catamaran that include a visit to Saona Island, a government protected nature preserve off the south-east tip of the country.

Resort Library. Take a Book. Leave a Book

The Dominican Republic is a prime destination for Canadians in the winter and spring. We were surprised to learn that more than 50% of the guests at our resort were from Canada. One couple from New Brunswick were on their third visit to Bahia Principe Ambar. “We love it,” they told us. “The people are respectful and friendly. The Dominican Republic is our number one choice in the Caribbean”.

Photo Credits

All photos by Sandra and John Nowlan – All Rights Reserved